Frequently Asked Questions
Mostly about the spraying — what it reaches, what it cannot, and where the can fits in.
Spray vs. Aerosol vs. Brush
Is this the same as the anti rust spray sold in a can?
No, and it is worth being blunt about it. An aerosol lays down roughly 1 to 3 mils of solvent-borne film that shrinks as the carrier flashes off. It is a touch-up product for a chipped bracket or a hinge. What we supply is 100% solids polyurea sprayed through a plural-component gun at 20 to 120 mils per pass with zero shrinkage. Both are called anti rust spray. Only one is a membrane.
Could I just brush or roll the same material instead?
No. The components react in 3 to 6 seconds after they meet, so there is no working time to spread anything — the mixing has to happen at the gun and the material has to leave it immediately. That constraint is also the benefit: it is why the film does not sag overhead and does not thin at edges.
Why does a sprayed film hold thickness on edges when a brushed one does not?
Surface tension. Any wet film that stays liquid will level, and levelling pulls material away from sharp geometry toward flat areas — that is why corrosion so often starts on a cut edge or a weld crown. Fast-set polyurea gels before it can level, so the mil reading on a corner matches the mil reading on the panel beside it.
Is there anything a spray genuinely cannot reach?
Yes. Fully enclosed cavities with no access opening, threads that have to stay functional, and the mating faces of parts that are already bolted together. If a part needs to come apart for proper coverage, we will tell you rather than pretend the gun solved it.
Spraying It Well
How much overspray should I expect, and how is it controlled?
Overspray is real and it travels. Plan on masking well beyond the work area, using containment sheeting in a shop, and paying attention to wind direction outdoors. Budget roughly 10 to 15% extra material over the theoretical coverage to account for it, plus surface profile on blasted steel.
How do you get consistent thickness by eye at that speed?
By pass discipline, not by eye. Consistent gun distance, a steady traverse rate, and roughly 50% overlap between passes. Then verify: a wet film gauge during the pass and a magnetic or ultrasonic DFT gauge afterward. On spec work we recommend documenting readings — the material is uniform, so variation almost always traces back to technique.
Can it be sprayed outdoors, or in cold and humid weather?
Yes, within limits — fast gel means ambient conditions have far less time to affect the film than with a conventional coating that stays wet for hours. What still matters is substrate temperature and dew point, and wind, which turns overspray into a neighbor problem. Tell us your conditions and we will give you the working window.
What happens if I spray a second pass later?
Inside about six hours, a fresh pass knits chemically with what is already there and needs no additional prep. Past that window, abrade the surface and apply 7001 primer before spraying again. Spot repairs on a damaged area work the same way and take minutes.
Getting It Done & What It Costs
I do not own spray equipment. What are my options?
Applying this material requires a plural-component proportioner with a heated hose — it is not airless-sprayable and there is no consumer version. Most people in your position use an applicator; tell us your region and we will point you at one. If you spray for a living and want to add the capability, we can walk you through equipment and training instead.
How much material does a job actually take?
At 100% solids one gallon yields 1,604 mil-sq-ft. That is about 27 sq ft at a 60-mil exterior spec or roughly 80 sq ft at a 20-mil maintenance spec, before adding 10 to 15% for overspray and profile. Send us square footage and target DFT and we will do the math with you.
Will the sprayed finish stay the same color outdoors?
Aromatic polyurea such as OR93BL chalks and fades in direct sun. It is purely cosmetic — corrosion protection, adhesion, and physical properties are unaffected. Where long-term appearance is part of the job, we spec an aliphatic topcoat over it.
How rough can the finished texture be, and can it be controlled?
Sprayed polyurea lands with a textured, slightly orange-peel surface — which is usually welcome, since it adds slip resistance on beds and decks. Texture is adjusted through gun distance, pressure, and temperature. If you want it smoother or deliberately more aggressive, say so and we will set the parameters with you.
Still Wondering Whether Spray Is the Answer?
Ask. If a can or a brush honestly covers your situation, we will say that instead of selling you a system.
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